Gold Vari Da Bagh Phulkari Early 20th Century

Western Punjab, early 20th century, circa 1930. 244 x 124 cm (96 x 44.8 inches). Dense embroidery in a beautiful gold coloured floss silk on a fine cotton ground. Featuring a wonderful, complex geometric design of concentric diamonds set within broader chevrons.

An exceptional, museum quality example in superb condition. While vari da bagh designs often feature a repeating block of two concentric diamonds, finer pieces like this one feature three concentric diamonds.

The quality of these textiles needs to be seen to be believed. The surface is completely covered in embroidered silk and they look and feel like the absolute height of luxury. The way they fold and flow and drape, the buttery soft feel of them, they are second to none.

Phulkari ('floral work”) refers to the folk embroidery of the Punjab region. Bagh ('large garden') is a style wherein the entire surface is embroidered. Vari da Bagh (‘garden of the wedding trousseau’) is a type of shawl used in Punjabi wedding ceremonies and is characterised by a main field embroidered with gold, with borders in a variety of colours.

Astonishingly, these beautiful and accomplished textiles are created without recourse to pattern books and the embroidery is worked entirely from the reverse of the fabric by counting the yarn. Fine gaps are left between the shapes so that the red base fabric (khaddar) shows through as an outline. Taking years to make, embroidery traditionally begins shortly after the birth of a boy, then years later, the completed bagh is draped around his bride just after their wedding ceremony.

Condition is almost perfect, a very small loss of embroidery approx 1cm square to the left upper edge. No marks or stains. Please see images and video, more images available on request.

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